Golden circuit of Amritsar, Dalhousie & Dharamshala

Introductory anecdote

I was vehemently searching for a domestic travel destination to visit before the kick-start of the travel season in India. I was scrolling through Google map and was considering Bhutan (not a part of India and too expensive with the introduction of sustainable development fees for Indians), Sikkim (Gangtok), Leh & Ladakh but had to ignore all of them as my wife has difficulty with high altitudes recently. I slowly moved on the Google radar towards north considering Kashmir and Spiti valley but every destination had similar constraints.

Mr.Ashish from Holiday Himalayas (a travel agency based in Manali) suggested the above circuit. Amritsar was definitely one of our dream places to visit. Since Dalhousie and Dharamshala lie in the foothills of Himalayas, I decided to give it a try. Thanks to Mr.Ashish for his guidance and support, it turned out to be one of the most memorable visits (please see his contact details at the end the post)

Even before we could start, trouble erupted in Punjab and especially in Amritsar as state police had initiated a major crack down on the infamous Pro-Khalistani leaders and supporters. Mr.Ashish gave us confidence to go ahead and he was ready with plan B and Plan C in case of any untoward situations.

And finally, we flew to Chandigarh from Chennai and drove to Amritsar straight from the airport. (It took 4.5hours by taxi) Thankfully, there was absolutely no trouble as anticipated.

With a great sigh of relief, we hit the bed at 10pm after having dinner in our Amritsar hotel. My wife was fast asleep but I was fresh and excited as usual worrying about how the next 10 days would transpire. Around 10.20pm, I felt strong oscillations and initially ignored them for some weird thoughts. And when it continued for few more seconds accompanied with some rattling sound, I realized there was some trouble. And yes, when I desperately searched in google, news agencies had already started reporting a strong earthquake of magnitude 7.5 in Richter scale with the epicenter in Afghanistan.

As I peeped out of my room window, I found people on the streets. Tried to wake up my wife but she felt too sleepy to believe me. As a devoted husband, I had no choice but to stay put relying on our bestowed destiny. Tremors continued for almost 45mins and then, I probably guess Mother Earth decided to spare us and went to sleep allowing me to sleep as well.

Day 1,2 and 3 – March 21,22 and 23/2023

Amritsar, Punjab

Shri Harminder Sahib (Golden Temple)

Atlast, as we laid our foot inside Sri Harminder Sahib, it was a long time dream come true for us. Beyond religion and beliefs, we felt truly emotional as we had a first look of the temple complex with the Golden leaf dome in the middle of the holy pool, the Akal Takht and the clock tower. Adding to the vibes, the accompanying melodious ghazals on the speakers not only filled the temple complex but our minds and hearts too.

Its a great wonder how the administration of the Golden temple could work so seamlessly. Temple is open 24 hours for darshan and handles an average daily pilgrim footfall of 1 lakh to 1.5l akhs (0.1 to 0.15million). Free stay for pilgrims is offered in more than 12 accommodations and more than a lakh (0.1million) free meal is served everyday round the clock. And to crown it all, the entire complex is spick and span.

There are no special dress codes to enter the temple (except covering head and removing footwear) and no fast track counters to enter the Sanctum santorium – it seems any VIP has to wait and go through the same queue.

Volunteering is an integral part of the Golden temple’s spiritual process. Many opt to volunteer in the langar kitchen or wash utensils regardless of their wealth or status in society.

My wife was determined to identify a kitchen staff and expressed her desire to volunteer. She was directed to the roti (Indian bread) section of the langar sewa kitchen to segregate and arrange the rotis along with few other female volunteers. And after working for a couple of hours, she came back with a great contentment having fulfilled her burning desire to serve in the most holiest Gurudwara.

Following this, we also had the free meal in one of the huge dining halls. They served Roti, flavoured rice, 2 vegetable curries(sabji) and a sweet porridge. Its a real delight to see how the dining halls are managed.

The Golden temple also houses the Central Sikh museum that wonderfully portrays the evolution of Sikhism and the sufferings and contribution of different Sikh Gurus at different times in history.

Shri Harminder Sahib shall remain in our hearts as the best worship place that we have ever visited.

Durgiana temple

Not far away from Sri Harmindar Sahib (3kms) is the Durgiana Mandir, a Hindu temple built in 1921 and dedicated to Maa Durga. Being an exact replica of the Golden temple, the presence of Durgiana temple at such a close proximity to the Golden temple is another classic example for India’s secular philosophy.

Attari / Wagah Border (35kms from Amritsar)

The Partition of India in 1947 shattered erstwhile Punjab that included a larger part of present day Pakistan especially Lahore. It was so pathetic that yesterday’s neighbors turned around into murderers and looters as soon as Partition was announced. Lahore and Amritsar (both separated by less than 50kms) witnessed many cross-migrations through the Grand Trunk road while the actual borders and jurisdictions still remained ambiguous and undefined. One Brig.Mohinder Singh Chopra posted in Amritsar tried to reach his Pakistan counter part to sort out the border issue. Fortunately, he turned out to be Brig.Chopra’s old collegue in the colonial force. The two friends selected the present Attari/Wagah area and placed white washed drums marking the border. And thus the Attari/Wagah immigration gate was born.

The 30minutes flag-lowering ceremony has subsequently transformed into a favorite and popular show drawing huge tourists arriving 3 hours earlier to grab best view points. Sorry if I am using the word show because in my perspective, it has become more like one. BSF does a good job managing parking and visitors. They also entertain the crowd by playing patriotic Hindi movie songs and even invite female citizens to dance on the parade road.

Ironically, Pakistan side had fewer visitors and seem to have better viewing point.

Earlier, we found a BSF website offering advance seat bookings to watch the ceremony. We also received a confirmation voucher with assigned seat numbers through mail. But in reality, we did not find any reserved seats and had to sit on the cemented steps in the gallery like everyone else. Hope BSF fixes this and helps the ones who could plan a visit well in advance.

Jallianwala Bagh memorial

No event could be as traumatic as learning about Jallianwala Bagh massacre in our school history lessons. It was on April 13th,1919 when General Dyer unleashed a brutal attack on our innocent fellow countrymen who had gathered to attend a peaceful meeting at Jallianwala Bagh grounds in Amritsar.

The memorial site had undergone a complete renovation in 2019 on its centenary anniversary and stands as a befitting symbol of our country’s freedom struggle. The bullet marks on the walls and the well that ended in a fatal stampede as people tried to take refuge are still preserved to remind us the untold sufferings on that fateful day. Despite the serene, green and calm ambience of the park, the very thought standing in the same place where our brothers and sisters were ruthlessly massacred made us feel very emotional. As we were going around the memorial, I could relate a similar experience we had in Hiroshima museum and Peace park in Japan.

I felt so proud looking at the way the memorial is upgraded with an amazingly portrayed exhibits aptly bringing out the pain of the massacre. Such memorials would definitely invite the attention of our youngsters and help in keeping the patriotic fervour alive among the future generations too.

Heritage Walk and Partition Museum

Beginning from entrance to Jallianwala Bagh until the Partition Museum, the Amritsar administration has done a wonderful job laying out a vehicle free heritage walk for a 3kms stretch. This stretch comprises The Golden temple, Jallianwala Bagh memorial park, Partition Museum, many heritage buildings and shops selling street foods, clothes and other stuff interesting to the tourists.

And foodies – don’t miss the local Amritsari Lazzi, Chole Bature, Phirnis, Rabaddis, hot Carrot halwas, Jilebis and the Soan halwas in the food streets. Amritsar is also famous for Aam Paapad, a healthy and tasty snack (a sun dried fruit leather made with mango pulp and sugar concentrate)

The Partition museum is one of its kind exhibiting the chain of events and sufferings that unfolded around Punjab and Bengal (today’s Bangladesh) when Partition of India and Pakistan was announced in 1947. Visiting Jallianwala Bagh and Partition museum would have greater impact on our younger generations in understanding and realizing the difficult journey of today’s Independent India.

Gobindgarh fort & the last resting place of Kohinoor Diamond

Gobindgarh fort was initially built in the 18th century by Bhangi Misl, a local chieftain of Amritsar. In 1805, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the most prominent king of the Sikh empire took over the fort and strengthened the same with moats and fortified walls. He also built a Toshakhana (treasury) to store his grand possession that included the much celebrated Kohinoor diamond that he bought from one of a troubled Afghan ruler.

Later, when Punjab was captured by East India company, the Kohinoor was sent to Prince Albert by the then Governor General of India as per the Last Treaty of Lahore in 1849 signed between Duleep Singh, a 11years old Maharaja of Sikh empire and the British East India company. The Kohinoor diamond was cut into 2 pieces and one adorned the Queen’s crown and the other was used to make different jewelry. Needless to say, Kohinoor diamond’s curse of misfortune did not spare the mighty Sikh empire and Gobindgarh fort also lost its sheen.

Gobindgarg fort was later used by the colonial forces and there even existed a bungalow for the infamous General Dyer, the butcher of Amritsar.

The fort is in the heart of Amritsar city close to the railway station. Today the fort is managed by a private entity and is open to public with a Warfare, Coins and Turban museums and a food court. Many cultural events highlighting local folk art and dances are also hosted. There are a couple of 7D and laser shows hailing the great leadership of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. I had gone in the afternoon, but a visit in the evening with scintillating lights should have been a feast to the eyes. I felt Gobindgarh fort today is a wonderful model of how a public-private partnership could do wonders.

Entry fee is Rs.50 per person but the staff always insist for a combo ticket starting from Rs.199 to Rs.600 with musuem entries, shows and food added in different packages. If you are a historical buff and have time, please do visit here.

I could not find time to visit Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama (a museum and Garden) and Punjab state War Heroes Memorial/Museum but if you are passionate about history and museums, please do visit here.

Day 4-March 24/2023

Dalhousie, Chamba Dt, Himachal (HP)

After the spiritual sojourn at Amritsar, we hit the road towards Dalhousie. It was a strenuous 5 hours drive through the mountains as we were approaching the foot hills of Himalayas in Himachal Pradesh(HP). And we reached Dalhousie at lunch time and were welcomed by heavy showers.

Dalhousie, a hill station in Chamba district of Himachal Pradesh was developed in 1850 as a summer retreat by Lord Dalhousie, the famous Governor General of India. Dalhousie is 6500ft above the sea level and as such is not a touristy place like Shimla, Manali or Kodaikanal. Dalhousie’s mall road was close to our resort and has an Indo Tibetan market, restaurants/cafes and shopping areas but everything were rudimentary. The nearby Panchpula falls and a couple of churches at closer proximity are listed as place of interest but never mind if you skip them.

And the best part of Dalhousie is just standing at any point here, one shall be treated with a panoramic view of the Dhauladhar range of mountains with the deodar trees (native to Himalayas) overlapped with green meadows and the snow clad mountains in the background.

The rain had stopped but it was too cold as temperature dipped below 10^oC. We were quickly having a look at the Indo Tibetan market as my wife made some winter clothing purchase. We felt hungry and found a Tibetan cafe at the end of the Indo Tibetan market. The cafe looked relatively new (no name board yet) and the dining place was like a roadside cafe. We ordered Thupkas and momos. The Tibetan couple owning the restaurant saw us shivering in cold and offered a special mutton bone soup that would keep us warm. We were enthralled with the hospitality of the couple as they refused to take money for the special soup too. Many such good hearts help us look at the world with positivity and also inspire us to remain passionate and loving towards fellow humans.

Soon the rains resumed and we were forced to return back to the resort.

Day 5-March 25/2023

Khajjiar Valley, Champa Dt., Himachal

It was raining like cat and dog the whole night and the rains continued to be relentless in the morning too. It was tough to even reach the resort restaurant 2 floors above for breakfast. A little disappointed, I decided to abandon the day. As we were having our breakfast, suddenly the sky opened up and the Rain God (Varuna as in Hindu Mythology) decided to take a break giving way to the Sun God.

But we never expected for a double delight when we were fortunate to see fresh snow as we proceeded to Khajjiar valley. This natural event was seen for just 15kms and we felt it like a God sent event exclusively for us.

Khajjiar valley is 30kms from Dalhousie and is referred as Mini Switzerland among tourists. The green meadows and the small pond with a couple of chalets resemble buildings in Switzerland. There are many eateries and fun activities too.

LakshmiNarayan Temple, Chamba, Himachal-An ASI protected temple

Lakshmi Narayan group of temples, Chamba, Himachal is on the banks of river Ravi. The temple was built by Raja Sahil Varman, the Champa king in 920AD. The temple has six towers placed in a north to south direction, three towers dedicated to Lord Shiva and three to Lord Vishnu. The towers have a Nagara architecture with the Shikara, Garbagriha, an ornamental entrance and a small front mantapa together forming a single standalone module. The shikara has a shell roof and a wheel like design to handle snowfalls. It seems the temple rituals were never interrupted in its history as the place was hardly invaded. Many intricate and beautiful carvings adorn the walls of the towers and its no surprise ASI had declared this temple as a protected monument.

Bhuri Singh museum in Champa houses art and exhibits focusing on the history and culture of Champa and we spent almost an hour before returning to Dalhousie.

Day 6,7 & 8 (Dharamshala)-March 26,27 and 28/2023

Dharamshala, Himachal -The Abode of Dalai Lama

Dharamshala is in Kangra district of Himachal and is the home to Dalai Lama, the estranged leader of Tibet. It is also known as Little Lhasa or Dhasa (combining Dharamshala & Lhasa in Tibet). Dharamshala is around 5500feet above sea level and is well connected by road and air (Kangra airport is just 14kms away)

But most of the touristy activity is in McleodGanj , a happening suburb, 3kms from Dharamshala. McleodGanj is named after Sir Donald Mcleod, the then Lieutenant Governor of Punjab. McleodGanj is located 2200ft above Dharamshala and hence requires a steep ascend – only an expert driver can negotiate through the steep, narrow and crowded streets.

Recently, Tata enterprises has started operating a cable car service between McleodGanj and Dharamshala but the tickets are pricey.

Kalachakra temple and McleodGanj market

This temple could be confused with another Kalachakra temple found inside the Dalai Lama temple complex. This Kalachakra temple is a beautiful bright architectural building right on the market place and houses the prayer hall in the 2nd floor. A big stupa rises from the ground floor and extends until the ceiling of the 2nd floor.

The McleodGanj market is indeed very vibrant, choked with shops, cafes, eateries and bakeries selling pastries. Our appetite would automatically be triggered at the sight of hot and steaming momos sold on the streets around the Kalachakra temple. And there are no restrictions with selling meat here. I was a little surprised to see a Buddhist monk buying raw meat in McleodGanj market. I was curious and learnt through the internet that Dalai Lama himself consumes meat but mostly when offered.

Dalai Lama temple – Tsuglagkhang complex

This building was acquired by Indian government from a rich Lahore citizen as per the partition treaty of 1947. Later, it was granted to Dalai lama who by then had fled Tibet in 1959 after Tibet’s suppression by the Chinese communist government. This complex houses Namgyal monastery, a Tibetan Buddhism study centre, Dalai Lama’s personal temple and office cum residence of His Highness The Dalai Lama (The Tibetan government in exile)

The temple’s location overlooking the snowcapped Dhuladhar range of mountain and its tranquility would help anyone seeking to find inner peace and ectasy. It’s a great meditative experience to move the prayer wheels around the four walls of the temple with the sanskrit words Om Padme Mani Hum inscribed on them.

Norbulinga Monastry and Institute, Sidhbari, Himachal

Norbulinga monastry is 15kms from McleodGanj on Palampur road. Not many tourists visit here but we highly recommend this destination for anyone visiting Dharamshala. The whole campus is a sprawling garden with a chilling ambience.

Norbulinga Institute offers courses to Tibetans on wood carving/painting, Thanga painting (a Tibetan form of fabric painting), metal sculpture and weaving. Each section has well equipped halls and the artisans working here are keen to interact about their skills and experiences.

The institute is a perfect example of the Tibetan’s organised way of approaching life whatsoever hurdles comes their way.

The doll museum here is wonderfully curated and was just awesome. I am not elaborating much about the doll museum as it really needs to be seen to appreciate. The temple in the centre of the campus was another peaceful abode of Lord Buddha in a serene atmosphere. The cafeteria offers Indian, Chinese and Italian food and snacks. And there is a Rs.50 entry fee to the monastery/institute but its every penny worth.

Gyuto Karampa monastry, Sidhbari, Himachal

Another 3kms from Norbulinga Institute lies the Gyoto Karampa Monastery. The elegant Tibetan architecture, the bright-yellow wall paint and the scenic backdrop adds to the beauty of this place.

This is an exclusive boarding school cum monastery for the Buddhist monks in the making. We found hundreds of cute boy monks in typical red wardrobes running around playing and attending classes. When we approached a cute looking boy monk to pose with us for a photo, he felt shy and ran away. Tibetan parents choose to leave the boys in the boarding school so that they get graduated in Buddhist teachings, philosophies and tantric rituals before embracing monastic celibacy.

We also participated in a ceremonial prayer ritual in the temple. It was a very different experience to watch the Buddhist tantric practices and we were also elevated to a meditative and spiritual height in the process.

Bhagsunag temple/falls & Chamunda Devi temple-A Shakthi Peeth

Chamunda Devi temple is 25kms from McleodGanj on Palampur road. It’s 10kms from Gyuto Karampa Monastery. Though its designated as a Sakthi Peeth, I could not find any citation for its recognition as a Shakthi peeth.

Bhagsunag temple is 2kms from McleodGanj market and is an important landmark today as many tourist hotels are found in this area. We also stayed in one such hotel in Bhagsu. There is a small market on the passage to the temple.

Bhagsunag temple is a Shiva temple dedicated to Nag Devata (snake God) and was built in the 18th century to serve the Gorkha regiment when the colonial forces established cantonment in this area. The temple was devastated in the 1905 Kangra earthquake and was rebuilt later. And in September 2022, Bhagsu was in national news when a sudden cloudburst flooded the area (there are many videos in youtube).

The Bhagsunag falls can be viewed from the temple, but if you prefer to have a closer look as I did, then it needs a 1km trekking.

St.John’s Church in Wilderness

St.John’s church is located amidst thick evergreen coniferous forest typical to the Himalayas in McleodGanj. This protestant church was built in 1852 with a Geo-gothic architecture.

James Bruce(the 8th Earl of Elgin) after having served as Governor General of Canada, Jamaica and China was appointed as Governor General and Viceroy of India in 1861. He unfortunately died while touring Dharamshala in November 1863 and was buried in the St.John’s church. The memorial here stands in his memory and his brief stint as Viceroy of India.

Dharamshala Cricket stadium and State War memorial

Dharamshala cricket stadium is a favorite destination among cricket lovers in India and the rest of the world too. It’s considered the most scenic and highest cricket stadium in the world hosting many international cricket matches adding to it’s honour. It was a big disappointment as the stadium was closed for renovation work when we visited. We could only manage a photo session from the outside.

Less than a kilometre from here is a state war memorial dedicated to the matryrs of armed forces from Himachal. A small garden and a walking area could give you a relaxing time.

Naddi View is a sunrise and sunset point in McleodGanj and tends to get crowded in the evenings. The sunset on one side and snow capped mountain on the other is quite rejuvenating view.

Dharamkot is an area in McleodGanj mostly inhabited by Israeli citizens. Most of the business is run by the Israelis themselves. It was around 2kms from our hotel in McleodGanj and I reached here by foot. Not worth going unless you have lot of time.

Dal lake is on the way to Naddi view point and is a just a mere big tank of muddy water. Please don’t get carried away by the name relating with the Srinagar Dal lake.

Dharamshala is also a favorite destination for trekkers. Triund is one of the most preferred trekking circuit among beginners and is a popular weekend trekking destination as it needs just 2 days.

An innovative waste management campaign initiative by the Dharamshala administration was found in McleodGanj. But in reality, we found waste plastics and litter all around. Things are getting better in our country but still a long way to go.

Day 9 – March 29/2023

And I wanted to end the post with the above message that caught my attention in one of the shops in McleodGanj market the last evening. Yes, it definitely needs patience to read my long posts. And thanks for the same.

We made a brief stop and an overnight stay in Chandigarh (5.5 hours drive from Dharamshala) before returning to Chennai.

End

Travel Support: Holiday Himalayas, Manali. Contact person: Mr.Ashish email: sales@holidayhimalayas.com website: https://www.holidayhimalayas.com/

Hotel In Amrtisar- Hotel Grand Gabbana. A good hotel with spacious and big room and very close to the Golden temple. Food was good but served as Ala-carta (even if complimentary) as they did not have many guests.

Hotel In Dalhousie – Mongos Resort. A very good 3 Star property close to Dalhousie’s mall road. The buffet lunch and breakfast had a good spread and was excellent.

Hotel in McleodGanj/Dharamshala- Hotel A.K.International, Bhagsu– A regular business hotel with spacious rooms and clean toilets. The staff are very friendly and helpful. Food was again served as Ala-Carte but was excellent.

Hotel in Chandigarh- Hotel Shagun, Zirakpur– Just an overnight stay. A business class hotel with well appointed rooms. The staff were kind enough to pack breakfast in the early morning hours.